Trieste: Bagutta Triestino
On my first morning in Trieste, I woke up with a full-blown cold. The symptoms had crept up on me during my lengthy train ride from Budapest, and it was…
On the Train to Trieste
On the morning of my departure from Budapest, I awoke extra early in order to catch my 8:35am train to Trieste. Despite hitting the morning rush on the subway ride…
Muggia and Miramare: Chasing the Elusive Photo
Early the next morning, Mike and I took a boat to Muggia, located just south of Trieste near the Slovenian border. My previous visits to Muggia had been in February,…
Castello di Duino and the Rilke Path
After a couple slices of putizza—a spiral cake filled with chocolate, dried fruit, and nuts that we had purchased at Pasticceria Penso the day before—Mike and I headed out to…
Trieste: Grotta Gigante
By the next morning, the sun had returned, although there was a bit of a chill in the air. We began the day with more pastries at Pasticceria Penso: a…
New Travel Highlights on Afar
Check out my new travel "Highlights" on Afar.com: Europe's largest seafront square and a festival of wild berries.
Trieste: Castello di Miramare
It’s time to introduce my husband, Mike. Although we were not yet married at the time of this trip, we had been dating for about seven years. Mike had joined…
Fave dei Morti
My recipe for Fave dei Morti (Almond Cookies), as excerpted from Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy, is featured today at chicgalleria.com. Translated literally as “beans of…
Muggia: Lilibontempo (Trattoria “Ex-Hitler”)
On my last day in Trieste, I took bus #20 from the train station and, after a half hour of winding through the city’s southern suburbs, arrived in the town…
Pasticceria Penso: Torta Sacher
It was a blustery February morning, and I had returned to Pasticceria Penso, one of Trieste’s oldest bakeries, to inquire about some local dessert recipes. Several days prior, I had…