The mountains of northern Friuli may be divided geographically into three areas: the Carnian Alps in the west, the Giulian Alps to the east, and the foothills often referred to as Alto Friuli. Until the mid-1900s, much of this mountainous area had been isolated from the rest of the region. The harsh climate and rugged terrain prevented the free-flowing trade of goods that flourished elsewhere. These northern Friulians had to become self-sufficient, gathering what food they could find in the fields and forests. Wild mushrooms, herbs, and berries consequently became an integral part of their diet, as did wild game such as venison and pheasant, and fresh fish, particularly trout, which are plentiful in Carnia’s rivers and lakes.
As in the rest of the region, foods with a long shelf life, such as polenta, beans, and potatoes, have become dietary staples. Before refrigeration was invented, meats had to be eaten immediately to avoid spoilage. Salt- and smoke-curing were thus employed, and the small village of Sauris di Sotto became home to one of Carnia’s most recognized products, prosciutto di Sauris. Here, the Prosciuttificio Wolf Sauris produces their famous smoked ham as well as many other types of salumi.
At one time, the economy of Carnia depended almost exclusively on the breeding of cattle. Today, cows are still raised primarily for dairy purposes, the milk used to make fresh butter, yogurt, and cheese. Montasio cheese is one of Friuli’s top food exports and is produced in three varieties: fresh, semi-aged, and aged. Ricotta affumicata, on the other hand, is more difficult to acquire outside of the region. Smoking fresh ricotta above a fogolâr (hearth) gives this cheese its unique flavor, making it a perfect garnish for pasta and gnocchi. Even rarer still is the seasonal formaggio di malga. This cheese is produced only in the summertime, when cows are brought from the valleys’ dairy farms to tiny mountain huts called malghe, where the cows can graze to their hearts’ content in tranquil Alpine pastures.
While the majority of Carnia’s food has always been grown or gathered on its land, there was one significant food source from the outside world. Traveling peddlers called cramârs introduced the region to an assortment of exotic herbs and spices from the markets of central Europe. It is thanks to these merchants that spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg are used so extensively in Carnia’s cuisine.
Many varieties of jams, fruit syrups, and honey are produced throughout Carnia, as are sliwovitz (plum brandy), grappa flavored with herbs or berries, and liqueurs distilled from pears, cherries, and other fruits. Desserts of northern Friuli are generally simple and rustic. Cakes, tarts, breads, and strudels may be prepared with locally grown apples, pears, berries, pumpkin, or nuts.
