Trieste’s Aquarium and Pasticceria Bomboniera
I had arrived in Trieste to begin the research for my book Flavors of Friuli. Being particularly interested in the city’s local foods, I set out first thing in the…
Dream of Italy: May 2011 issue
This month I have two articles featured in the Dream of Italy newsletter: "Rediscovering Paradise in Castiglioncello" and "10 Great Things to Do on the Island of Elba." I first…
Trieste: Buffet Da Pepi
Armed with a mission to discover everything there is to know about Friulian cuisine, I arrived in Milano on a cold February evening to find myself without a hotel reservation.…
Flavors of Friuli: The Journey Begins
If you have been following my posts from the beginning, you will have read about my travels in Friuli up until 2004. It was the beginning of that year that…
Christmas Market in Udine
While strolling through downtown Udine on a chilly, mid-December evening, the sound of violins filled the air as I passed by a string trio performing on the sidewalk. Star-shaped Christmas…
A Day in San Daniele del Friuli
Following another satisfying breakfast buffet at Udine’s Hotel Principe, I set out for the bus station, conveniently located just a few steps down the street, and caught an early bus…
Udine: Civici Musei and Museo Diocesano
Today, we’ll visit two of Udine’s best-known museums: the Civici Musei and the Museo Diocesano. The Civici Musei, or “civic museums,” are located inside the Castello di Udine, reachable via…
Cjalsòns: Sweet & Savory
Served in nearly every restaurant throughout northern Friuli, cjalsòns are one of the region’s best-loved specialties. The word derives from the same root as the calzone from Naples, and the…
A Day in Cividale del Friuli
There was a chill in the air as I left Hotel Principe the next morning and crossed the street once again to the train station. Fortunately, this time, there were…
Sightseeing in Udine
My first morning at Udine’s Hotel Principe was greeted by a substantial buffet in the hotel’s downstairs breakfast room. After treating myself to a croissant and some frutti di bosco…