7 Valleys of Carnia
Hidden in the remote northwest corner of Friuli, where Italy meets Austria, are the Carnia mountains. The area takes its name from the region's first inhabitants, a Celtic tribe called…
Land of the Sbilfs: Turn back time in the Carnian Alps
This piece was originally published in the June-July 2013 issue of Dream of Italy under the title "Simple Pleasures in Friuli's Carnian Alps." Hidden in the mountains of northern Friuli–Venezia…
Forni di Sopra: Osteria Al Tulat
A deafening crash of thunder, followed by a stampede of raindrops against the window, startled me out of my restless dreams at 4:30am. It was still dark outside, yet every…
Ravascletto
On my last day in Ravascletto, I chose to stay in for most of the day. I'd had a fairly strenuous past couple of days, with my recent hike up…
Ovaro: Mondo delle Malghe
It soon became obvious to me that my absence at lunch and dinner the previous day had been a major faux pas. Around 9:00pm, I had received a phone call…
Malga Pozôf
I awoke early on Saturday morning with complete uncertainty as to my plans for the day. The prior evening’s storm had passed through, leaving the valley glistening as the first…
Ravascletto: Bellavista
Passing through Tolmezzo earlier in the week, I had noticed a sign at the bus station announcing a transportation strike that was scheduled, most inconveniently, for today, the day I…
Intermission
It was June 2004 when Mike and I returned to San Francisco. I had over a year to prepare for my next trip, which would take me once again throughout…
Friuli’s Best Cjarsòns
I awoke early to the sound of a light rain pattering against our windows. It was the perfect day to sleep in, yet Mike and I had plans to leave…