Salt Cod Dishes of Friuli-Venezia Giulia
One of the best known staples of Venetian cooking is salt cod, or baccalà, and since much of Friuli was under Venetian rule for centuries, it is natural that baccalà…
Gnocchi of Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Potato gnocchi is quite common throughout much of Italy, but nowhere more so than in the north, where there is a strong Austrian influence. In Friuli-Venezia Giulia, parts of which…
Cookies of Friuli-Venezia Giulia
With the exception of Trieste’s Viennese-style cakes and pastries and the Slovene-inspired spiral cake gubana, one does not typically associate the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia with desserts. Rather, it’s the…
Cookbook Corner: Il Mondo di Bepi Salon
In the hilltop hamlet of Piano d’Arta, on a serene lane lined with shady trees and wisteria blossoms, Albergo Ristorante Salon was long recognized for its innovative local cuisine. When…
White Asparagus of Tavagnacco
Note: After nearly two months of a nationwide lockdown due to the coronavirus COVID-19, Italy is finally beginning the process of reopening. However, the festival described in this piece has…
Trieste: Marzapane and Horse Meat
It was dark and cold when I woke at 7:00am, the final morning of Daylight Savings Time made even more somber by the layer of gray clouds that had rolled…
Trieste: Ristorante Al Bagatto
Since it had been several days since I had done any grocery shopping, I spent the early part of my morning picking up milk, bread, and another can of tuna…
Trieste and Muggia
Having woken up with a stuffy nose and headache—my second cold of the trip—I spent the entire morning in my apartment at Residence Liberty, organizing maps and schedules for my…
Cormòns: La Subida
My only plan for the day was to take the train to Cormòns for lunch, which left me the entire morning to spend in Trieste. The air was surprisingly thick…
Gorizia: Ai Tre Soldi Goriziani
This was the day I had been looking forward to ever since my arrival in Trieste. My baker friends at Pasticceria Penso had invited me to watch them prepare one…