Cjalsòns of Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Served in nearly every restaurant throughout northern Friuli, cjalsòns are a type of stuffed pasta with a multitude of possible fillings. Every cook in every valley of the Carnia mountains…
San Daniele: Prosciuttifici Prolongo and Il Camarin
Today’s destination was San Daniele del Friuli, where I had appointments to visit two prosciuttifici (prosciutto factories): Prolongo and Il Camarin. I took the bus from Udine and luckily had…
Tolmezzo
When I woke up the next morning, I turned on the news to hear reports of another heat wave sweeping Italy, with temperatures climbing once again into the upper 90s.…
Zuglio and Paularo
During my three weeks in Carnia, I planned to visit at least one town in each of the area's seven valleys. Today, I would be taking a bus to Paularo,…
Sauris: Ristorante Kursaal
The day I had been waiting for was finally here! I would be leaving Udine for a three-week stay in the mountains of Carnia. I had hotel reservations in five…
Sagra dei Cjalčons
After a restless night on an uncomfortably hard bed in an overheated room, breakfast at Hotel Valle Verde offered little comfort: just the average spread of rolls and croissants with…
Interview with Gianna Modotti
My second meeting with cooking instructor Gianna Modotti was scheduled for mid-afternoon, so I had the entire morning free. As I pondered my options over a late breakfast, I considered…
Cividale del Friuli: Dulcis in Fundo
When traveling, there is almost no feeling worse than that of waking up sick. This was my fate one chilly winter morning in Udine. Always being prepared for the worst,…
A Day in San Daniele del Friuli
Following another satisfying breakfast buffet at Udine’s Hotel Principe, I set out for the bus station, conveniently located just a few steps down the street, and caught an early bus…
Cjalsòns: Sweet & Savory
Served in nearly every restaurant throughout northern Friuli, cjalsòns are one of the region’s best-loved specialties. The word derives from the same root as the calzone from Naples, and the…