Zuglio and Paularo
During my three weeks in Carnia, I planned to visit at least one town in each of the area's seven valleys. Today, I would be taking a bus to Paularo,…
Malga Pramosio
Even though it was mid-July, the weather in Carnia remained rather cool. In fact, my room at Hotel Poldo was downright chilly, forcing me to dig two extra blankets out…
Arta Terme
I awoke to blue skies—the first since my arrival in Sauris—and some uncomfortably sore muscles from the previous day’s hike. At least I could take it easy, for today I…
Intermission
It was June 2004 when Mike and I returned to San Francisco. I had over a year to prepare for my next trip, which would take me once again throughout…
Friuli’s Best Cjarsòns
I awoke early to the sound of a light rain pattering against our windows. It was the perfect day to sleep in, yet Mike and I had plans to leave…
New Travel Highlights on Afar
Check out my new "Highlights" on Afar.com: two Alpine lakes and a food festival celebrating wild asparagus, mountain radicchio, and spring mushrooms.
Arta Terme: Festa dell’Asparago di Bosco, del Radicchio di Montagna e dei Funghi di Primavera
The next morning it was apparent that I was no longer the only guest at Hotel Gortani. The breakfast room was crowded with visitors who had come for the Festa…
Arta Terme: Two Tasting Menus
I arrived on a gorgeous spring morning after a 50-minute bus ride from Udine and a quick change of buses in Tolmezzo. Not being terribly familiar with Arta Terme, I…
Carnia in Winter
Last night at dinner, my friend Liviana had mentioned it might be snowing in Carnia today, so I dressed in extra layers. Five layers on top and three on the…