From the northern mountains to the central plains to the southern coastline, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is known for its hearty, rustic cuisine. With the exception of its capital city, Trieste, which experienced a period of prosperity during the rule of the Hapsburg Empire, this region was historically quite poor. Its foods reflected this state of poverty, with staples such as corn, beans, and potatoes featuring prominently in many local dishes and simple, unfussy presentation being the norm. Moreover, Friuli’s location bordering the Alps meant that winters could be brutal. Warm stews such as the ones featured below must have been particularly satisfying during the coldest months. Polenta, the region’s ubiquitous grain, is the customary side for each one.
Toç de Purcìt
This pork stew makes good use of cinnamon and cloves, two of the spices introduced to the Carnia mountains centuries ago by traveling peddlers called cramârs. In addition to pork shoulder, it also contains pancetta and pork liver, though I’ve substituted both beef and chicken liver with equally good results. Bread crumbs are used to thicken the stew, and lemon zest adds a pleasant brightness to an otherwise hearty dish.
Baccalà
Before refrigeration was invented, salt-curing was used to preserve a wide variety of foods, including fish. This Friulian preparation of salt cod closely resembles baccalà alla Vicentina, a stew from the adjacent Veneto region. Instead of being baked, as is typical there, Friulian baccalà is often cooked on the stovetop. In my rendition, the salt cod is simmered in milk and white wine, along with a flavorful mix of onion, garlic, anchovies, parsley, cinnamon, and aged Montasio cheese.
Goulasch
This beef stew came to Friuli during the reign of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is prevalent throughout the region. In the mountainous area along the Austrian border, it is typical to find goulasch prepared in the traditional style using only beef, onions, and paprika. In the city of Trieste, however, the dish is commonly made with tomato sauce. While there seems to be endless debate among locals on this matter, many consider the tomato version to be more authentically Friulian.
Recipes for all three of these stews may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
