One of the best known staples of Venetian cooking is salt cod, or baccalà, and since much of Friuli was under Venetian rule for centuries, it is natural that baccalà has become an important part of Friulian cuisine as well. In the Veneto, there are several common preparations of salt cod, with baccalà alla vicentina and baccalà mantecato perhaps being the most popular. You will find these dishes throughout Friuli-Venezia Giulia, though sometimes referred to by alternate names. The following are three salt cod dishes that I encountered in my travels.
Baccalà in Bianco
This salt cod purée is practically identical to the Venetian baccalà mantecato. In Trieste, it may be referred to as baccalà alla triestina or baccalà in bianco. The latter nomenclature is a bit clearer, since the term “bianco” (white) helps differentiate it from the “rosso” (red) version described below. Prepared with just salt cod, garlic, and olive oil, this creamy spread may be found in buffets throughout the capital city.
Baccalà in Rosso
Salt cod stews in Trieste are typically prepared with either potatoes or tomatoes, or sometimes both, as shown here. Like the salt cod purée described above, these dishes are often referred to as baccalà alla triestina. However, any version containing tomatoes may also be termed baccalà in rosso.
Baccalà
Baccalà alla vicentina, a stew from the adjacent Veneto region, may be found throughout central Friuli, although here I found it is often referred to simply as “baccalà.” In the town of Vicenza, after which the original dish was named, the baccalà is usually baked, while in Friuli, it is more commonly cooked on the stovetop. In my rendition, the salt cod is simmered in milk and white wine, along with a flavorful mix of onion, garlic, anchovies, parsley, cinnamon, and aged Montasio cheese.
Recipes for all three of these salt cod dishes may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
