Potato gnocchi is quite common throughout much of Italy, but nowhere more so than in the north, where there is a strong Austrian influence. In Friuli-Venezia Giulia, parts of which were ruled by Austria for centuries, variations of gnocchi stretch far beyond the simple potato dumpling. Here are five types of gnocchi that I feature in Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
Gnocchi di Zucca
These gnocchi are made with butternut squash instead of potato. While many gnocchi are prepared by rolling the dough into a rope and slicing into individual dumplings, I prefer to use two teaspoons to form the dough into a rough football shape, which is then dropped immediately into the cooking water. This allows me to use less flour, which gives the gnocchi a delicate, cloud-like texture. In this recipe, the gnocchi are served with melted butter, sage, and ricotta affumicata.
Gnocchi alle Erbe
Spinach gnocchi is popular throughout much of Italy, and in Carnia, cooks often use local wild herbs and greens as well. In my recipe, I use a mix of spinach, arugula, basil, chives, and parsley, though any combination of herbs will work. The base of the gnocchi dough uses ricotta rather than potato, which gives it a lighter texture. Like the gnocchi di zucca, these are served in melted butter and topped with ricotta affumicata.
Gnocchi Croccanti di Sauris
These crispy stuffed gnocchi are a specialty at Ristorante Alla Pace in Sauris di Sotto. The dough is a basic potato dough, and the dumplings are stuffed with a mixture of prosciutto di Sauris and aged Montasio cheese (though any prosciutto and aged cheese will work). Once they are boiled, the gnocchi are pan-fried in butter until crisp. Alla Pace then serves them on a bed of wilted arugula.
Gnocchi di Susine
These plum-filled gnocchi are of Austro-Hungarian origin and are especially popular in the provinces of Trieste and Gorizia. Italians normally use their small native prune plums, which are pitted and wrapped in the dough whole. My recipe is designed for the larger red or black plums that are more common in the U.S., and which I cut into smaller pieces, but either variety will work. Dried plums may also be substituted, as could apricots or cherries. Once cooked, the gnocchi are tossed in browned butter, toasted bread crumbs, and cinnamon sugar.
Gnocchi di Pane
These bread dumplings are very similar to Austria’s knödeln and contain a bit of pancetta along with a healthy amount of aged Montasio cheese. The gnocchi are typically served with either a drizzle of beef broth or the pan sauce from a braised meat such as stinco di vitello. They also make a fine accompaniment to goulasch.
Recipes for all five of these gnocchi dishes may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
