The concept of agrodolce in Italy is commonly attributed to the influence of the Arabs, who conquered Sicily in the year 965. With its literal translation being “sweet” (dolce) and “sour” (agro), this Sicilian sauce is traditionally made with vinegar and either honey or sugar as a sweetener. While the following four recipes from FVG would not perhaps be considered true agrodolce, since there is no sugar added, they are quite vinegar-forward and take advantage of the natural sweetness of onions and/or garlic to balance the acidity of the vinegar.
Sardoni in Savor
This ancient dish evolved out of the necessity to conserve fish and is evidence of the Venetian influence throughout Friuli. Called sarde in saor in Venetian dialect (saor derives from the word sapore, Italian for “flavor”), the dish consists of fish that are fried and then marinated in a sauce of vinegar and onions. While sardines are used in much of Friuli and the Veneto, European anchovies (known locally as sardoni barcolani) are more common in the area around Trieste.
Salame all’Aceto
Here is another dish that utilizes both onions and vinegar. It is quite popular throughout central Friuli, as well as in the region’s northern mountains. Any type of salame will work, though in the province of Pordenone, you will often find the dish prepared with pitina, a type of salami made from mutton, balls of which are dredged in cornmeal and then smoked.
Boreto alla Gradese
Not to be confused with the soup brodeto, this fish dish hails from the coastal town of Grado, where it is called boreto alla graesana in local dialect. Any type of fish steak may be used, and restaurants such as the acclaimed Tavernetta all’Androna typically use several varieties. The fish is served in a garlic and vinegar sauce, with white polenta as the customary accompaniment.
Brovada
Pickled turnip is one of Friuli’s most characteristic side dishes, though perhaps an acquired taste for many. Following an ancient Roman recipe, whole turnips are fermented for at least a month in grape “marc” (the residue left behind after grapes are pressed for wine), then sliced using a special grater. My quick-pickled version slices the turnips beforehand and marinates them for only 48 hours in a mixture of red wine and vinegar. They are then cooked with onion, garlic, and beef broth.
Recipes for all four of these dishes may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
