During the late 14th century, two competing powers were emerging in Europe: the Venetian Republic and the Austrian Empire. As the Venetians set forth on an extensive conquering spree, Trieste was forced to turn to its rival, the Hapsburgs of Austria, for protection. The city remained under their rule for centuries. After the Austrian Empire joined with the Kingdom of Hungary in 1867, coffee houses throughout the new Austro-Hungarian Empire began to flourish. As the empire’s chief port, Trieste was home to a number of these Viennese-style cafés, which were renowned for their wide selection of elegant cakes and pastries. The following are six traditional Austro-Hungarian desserts that remain popular in Trieste today.
Torta Sacher
Sachertorte is a chocolate cake layered with apricot glaze and covered in chocolate ganache. It was created in 1832 by Franz Sacher, chef for the Austrian prince Klemens von Metternich. In 1876, the chef’s son Eduard founded Vienna’s elegant Hotel Sacher and has ensured that the family recipe be kept a guarded secret. My recipe, inspired by Trieste’s Pasticceria Penso*, adds ground hazelnuts to the cake batter and Maraschino liqueur to the glaze.
Torta Dobos
Dobostorte consists of five thin rounds of sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream frosting. A sixth layer is glazed with caramel and used to decorate the top of the cake. The dessert was created by Hungarian pastry chef József Dobos for Budapest’s National General Exhibition in 1885. In my recipe, also inspired by Pasticceria Penso, hazelnut paste in the frosting adds an Italian touch.
Torta Rigojanci
Rigojanci, as the name is spelled in Italian, was named after the Hungarian gypsy violinist Jancsi Rigó (surnames come first there, hence the switch), whose passionate affair with an American millionairess caused a worldwide scandal in the late 19th century. It is a chocolate cake with chocolate cream filling and topped with chocolate ganache.
Cuguluf
Called kugelhupf in German, this Viennese Bundt cake is said to have been a favorite of Austrian emperor Franz Joseph. While other recipes in FVG may include raisins, almonds, pine nuts, or candied fruit, this chocolate- marbled version is typical of bakeries in nearby Gorizia.
Strucolo de Pomi
Strudel (strucolo in Triestine dialect) is thought to have been inspired by the Turkish pastry baklava. It can have many fillings, but apples are perhaps the most popular. True Austrian strudel requires a paper-thin dough similar to phyllo, but puff pastry is a common substitute in many of Trieste’s bakeries. My recipe, inspired by Pastcceria Penso, adds raisins, pine nuts, and candied orange peel to the filling.
Palacinche
Ubiquitous throughout central Europe, these crêpes are named after the Austrian palatschinke and the Hungarian palacsinta. While apricot jam remains the most popular filling, palacinche may also be served with chocolate cream, fresh fruit, cooked apples, ricotta cheese, or hazelnut cream.
Recipes for all six of these desserts may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
* One year ago, Pasticceria Penso became yet another casualty of the coronavirus pandemic, having been forced to close its doors after 103 years of business.
