Cornmeal has been a staple in Friuli since the 16th century and for much of that time was considered a food of poverty. Corn was originally introduced into Europe by the Spaniards after Columbus brought it back from the Americas, although the grain was initially intended for use only as cattle feed. Recognizing corn’s value as a food source for humans, the Venetian Republic soon took over the trade, selling it throughout the Mediterranean—even to their worst enemies, the Turks. Ironically, the Venetians, having forgotten where corn had originally come from, later bought it back from the Turks and reintroduced it to central Europe as “Turkish grain.” Even now, corn is known as granoturco throughout much of northeastern Italy.
Today, polenta remains Friuli’s ubiquitous side dish, eaten at nearly every meal, sometimes even for breakfast. In restaurants and homes throughout the region, you will find polenta, whether served morbida (soft) or alla piastra (grilled), alongside everything from frico to baccalà to goulasch. But cornmeal has so much more potential than being relegated to merely a supporting role. Here are four examples, where the grain is an integral part of the recipe.
Toç in Braide
Centuries ago, in the Carnia mountains, a dish such as this might be the centerpiece of the meal. Creamy polenta serves as a base for a simple ricotta sauce, made with ricotta cheese thinned with a little milk. Coarsely ground cornmeal is also used in the topping, where it is browned in butter till crunchy. Modern chefs have been known to serve the dish garnished with asparagus spears, shaved truffle, or sautéed mushrooms, depending on the season.
Paparòt
This hearty soup is typical of ancient peasant cooking in central Friuli, specifically in the province of Pordenone. The dish makes use of finely ground cornmeal rather than the coarse variety used for polenta. Extremely simple to prepare, the grain is simmered in broth, along with a bit of pancetta and plenty of chopped spinach.
Balote
These polenta balls originated in the town of Clauzetto, in the mountains north of Pordenone. According to local tradition, when a man wanted to propose marriage, he would present an offering of balote to the bride’s family; if the balote were immediately placed on the fogolâr to roast, it was understood that he had the family’s approval. For the filling, cooks typically use the local Asìno cheese, but since this is difficult to find outside the province, I like to use a combination of cream cheese (for the texture) and ricotta salata (for the saltiness). Cubes of fresh Montasio may be used instead.
Costicine in Brodo di Polenta
Pork has long been the principal meat in Friulian cuisine, so it makes sense that cooking pork with polenta would be a natural pairing. My recipe uses pork ribs, which are seared first to create a savory, brown crust. They finish cooking in the same pan along with the polenta, as well as some white wine, garlic, and rosemary for added flavor. Pork chops are also commonly prepared using this method.
Recipes for all four of these dishes may be found in my cookbook Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.
